February / March 10
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EDITORIAL
A crucial year
A personal view by Terry Dunleavy
Setting aside the semantic question of whether 2010 is the start of the second decade of the 21st century or the end of the first, one thing is for certain: it will be a crucial year for the New Zealand wine industry. Crucial in the semantic terms of its derivation: based on a sense of the Latin word crux, “cross,” which has come to mean “a guidepost that gives directions at a place where one road becomes two.” In other words, a crossroads.
As I see our New Zealand industry today, headed for 2020, we have reached crossroads with two signposts pointing in opposite directions: one to Australia; the other to Champagne. To Australia, as in chronic over-production with price-cutting as an imagined antidote resulting in a cheapened image; or Champagne as in careful matching of output to market demand, maintenance of a unique niche and skilful polishing of a perception of quality able to command premium prices. Which do we want to take?
Which is the preferred road? For those who want to be still in business 10 years hence, this is a no-brainer, it has to be the Champagne route. (Anyone in doubt should read and heed the stern message given by David Gleave MW to our own Peter McCombie MW on page 67). But, here in New Zealand, it’s a decision each winery must take for itself. We don’t have the option (or lack of it!) available to the Champenois of a self-regulating industry backed by government decree. Here, in our free market, the only discipline available to us is self-discipline.
In looking at the coming decade, and at how we retain the premium positioning, quality-wise and price-wise, that is necessary for our continued profitable viability, here are three areas worthy of our attention:
Varietal mix: Although I share the optimism of Richard Riddiford on page 50 about the role of Sauvignon Blanc in our future, there is no doubt that increasing our share of existing overseas major markets would be enhanced by availability of additional varietals suited to our unique national terroir. As white varieties such as Arneis, Albariño, Gruner Veltliner, from respectively Italy, Spain and Austria, gain traction internationally there will be interest in New Zealand interpretations. While acknowledging the fine work by Riversun Nurseries in importation and post-entry trials, there could be a need to review the process of selection and propagation to ensure that there is widest possible industry input into new varieties selected, and the shortest possible time between importation and availability for planting.
Sustainability: As David Cox points out on page 22 we have a unique opportunity to gain recognition as the world’s first fully sustainable wine industry. The spectre of man-made global warming with its accompanying fiddles of emissions trading, carbon footprints and so on, is fast being seen for the scam it has always been. The sooner and faster this happens, the greater will be a return to proper and justified concern for the environment and even wider recognition of the need for sustainability. We need to do two things in New Zealand: one, make sure that Sustainable Winegrowing NZ makes the least imposition of costs and compliance on vineyards and wineries, and is compatible with their differing sizes; two, create an instantly recognisable logo that stamps every qualifying bottle as being sustainably produced in New Zealand, and then make sure that world markets recognise the logo and know what it stands for, and that consumers everywhere respond with willingness to pay premium prices.
Identification and traceability: Provenance has always been synonymous with wine. Not just country, not just region, but also identification of the maker or the winery. In earlier times in New Zealand when wine was regulated under the Sale of Liquor Act, this was a legislative requirement. It did not prevent any maker from selling any number of brands, but it did impose a need for attention to quality and label integrity from wineries who knew that, ultimately, an enquiring consumer could identify the producer. The bewildering multiplicity of brands now confronting consumers here and overseas, some not up to our desired standards suggest that a return to legislated identification and traceability might not be such a bad thing.
Cheers
Terry Dunleavy
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